Our lights and harnesses have a couple of different Deutsch connectors, and below is an easy way to identify which plug you have


Our new piggyback adaptor specific for the Ford Ranger and Everest PXII/PXIII. These will remove any hassle from the installation of any of our driving light harness kits. Simply install as you would any other piggyback. The difference in ours is instead of tailing off the back of the high beam globe, you will go to the main power plug that comes out the back of the headlight unit.

Some may find access to this plug may be a tight squeeze so there are a few minor parts that can be removed but not a necessity to complete the install.

Removing the radiator trim cover and the bracket shown in the second photo above will open up a lot more room to work around the area required to install the piggyback. Again not a necessity but if you get stuck, this will help.

Below is an overlayed diagram to help visualize the plug installation position.

1. Connection to the vehicles main power supply for the headlight unit.
2. Plugs directly into the back of the headlight unit.
3. Connects to the T-Connector on the STEDI Harnesses.

This applies to both the Ford Ranger and Everest in the PX2/PX3 models.




This guide will walk you through the process of installing the Copper Head LED Conversions into your vehicle.


Through this post, we will run you through the average installation process converting your vehicle to LED. Keeping in mind some vehicles may require a few additional steps regarding special adaptors and CANBUS modules.



After you have selected the correct LED headlight, its time to install them. In most cases, this is quite simple with most vehicles requiring minimum effort. Some European models or certain hatchback vehicles may need the headlight housing removed to make the install process possible.



First up, removal of your existing halogen bulbs. Getting to the back of your headlight housing should be quite simple. But if that’s not the case you may need to remove your headlight unit.

Locate the dust or rubber cover at the back of the headlight. Just twist lock to loosen and remove. Unplug the power cable connected to the globe to remove obstacles. Simply twist the globe (most likely counter-clockwise) and pull towards the engine bay. Some headlights may have a metal clip that will need to be pushed in and away from the locking tab.


Start by disconnecting the CANBUS/driver and installing the LED Globe into the headlight housing. Twist to secure/clip any brackets that you unhooked to remove the old headlights. STEDI Copper Heads have 6 copper tails that will need to be maneuvered into the headlight housing to make sure it is dust and waterproof. Most headlight housings will have a pre-drilled slot in the dust cap for wiring to run from the globe to the power supply. Modern vehicles you may find the wiring will run internally in the headlight.

If the dust cap has a slot for the wiring, feed the wire from your LED Headlight globe through the dust cap and reinstall the cap to the back of the housing, skip ahead to STEP 3. If the dust cap does not supply a slot for the wiring to pass through, continue through to option 2A below.


At this stage, you will need to work out if the driver & canbus (if you require the additional canbus module) will fit inside the headlight unit. If there doesn’t seem to be sufficient space to fit all of the components back inside the housing it means you will need to run the driver/canbus on the outside of the housing. Drill 2 holes to run the cable through 1 hole to the outside and 1 hole to return the wiring back through to the power source. Rubber grommets are handy in this case to hold a watertight seal around the wiring and stop any water from seeping into the headlight housing.

Step 3:

Plug all required components back together. It’s easiest to start with connecting the driver into the globe and mounting the driver on a flat surface under the globe socket. If you followed Step 2A find a flat surface within reach to mount the driver onto. Secure the unit with double-sided tape or cable-ties.

If you have an additional CANBUS Unit make sure you will have a place to mount this as well. Internally there is usually enough room opposite where you will have mounted the driver. Externally mounting next to the driver unit making sure you have enough wiring to connect to the globe.

Step 4:

Tuck all wiring on the inside and replace the factory dust cap. A little re-positioning isn’t uncommon to get the correct fitment.

Once both LED Globes have been installed, turn the car’s ignition on and test your headlights to see if both fire up as usual. If there is a problem, double check all connections are properly installed and test again. For further help contact 4XLIGHT on +27 87 702 1718 or email.


Positioning your low beam globe manually requires parking your vehicle 3m from a wall. Then adjust the angle so that the beam runs horizontal to the headlight and doesn’t exceed the height of the vehicle’s bonnet. Adjust the headlight screw for optimum height. This is usually located at the top or bottom of the unit.


Some of our Copperhead range are fitted with removable collars because it makes the installation easier. The H1, H4 & H7 globes all have collars that can be removed and placed into the headlight housing to avoid working around the copper tails. Simply place the globe back into the collar and twist to lock into position.


Headlamp placement according to law

That’s a really nice light bar you have there!

Did you know it’s illegal? Or is it really?

The National Traffic Act does not allow the display of non-factory-fitted LED lights whatsoever.

It’s one of the hottest topics in the offroad and 4×4 community since winch cable replacement. But it’s one that every South African offroader can relate to. We all like, and need some extra light on- and offroad.

To keep this topic very short; LED Lightbars are not legal in South Africa. But, if you want to hear the full story and interpretation of the law around fitting additional lights to your vehicle, read on.

The National Road Traffic Act 93 of 1996 does not allow the display of non-factory fitted LED lights whatsoever. The regulation also stipulates that all lights fitted to your vehicle must be equally spaced and distanced from your vehicles center line. To understand where this line sits, picture your vehicle from the front and draw a vertical line through the manufacturer’s badge on the grill. This line, running from the ground vertically through the roof of your vehicle, is the central line. All your lights have to be fitted at equal distances from this line. Light bars are often rejected at testing stations because they run through the central line.

If you have lights fitted at equally spaced distances from the line, it should not pose a legality problem. Even more so, if your vehicle was fitted with LED headlights, it will already comply with SABS standards. The problem with LED Lightbars is they are not approved as standard equipment according to the SABS. According to Dekra Automotive, a testing and roadworthy center in Cape Town, a LED Lightbar is a definite no-no. The mere fact that you have a LED Lightbar fitted makes the vehicle unroadworthy. Even if you only use it while off-roading and have a cover on it, it can get you into trouble.

But what about LED Spotlights?

More light means less hassle in the bush at night, and many 4×4 owners like a few extra lights on the front of their vehicles. The RTA determines spotlights as extra headlights. And this makes the law relatively easy to interpret. The following rules apply with spotlights;

  • The number of headlights in front of your vehicle should not exceed 6, including your factory headlights.
  • The maximum height of spotlights is 1.4m or 1400mm from the ground up.
  • Any light cannot cross the center line of your vehicle.
  • All your lights MUST be in working order, even the ones for offroad use.

So even those fancy KC Daybreakers on your rollbar can get you some attention, but can also get you some trouble. Your lights may only emit the colors allowed by the law: red towards the back and white to the front. Unfortunately, the light you fitted to the back of your Landy to light up camp when you’re in the bush is unpopular with the authorities. Given the facts above, you could theoretically fit two smaller LED Lightbars to either side of your center line without infringing on the law.

Here is our thinking on this:

Although not the case outside of our borders, South African law “sees” a lightbar as a single light, not multiple lights in a container. Normal Spotlights these days contain more often than not multiple LED diodes, which is perfectly legal. There is no mention of the ‘shape’ of the light. So in theory, a LED Lightbar, two at each side could be considered as legal. If all the other parameters of the law are abided to, I see a very weak case of these being illegal. Again, this is just our opinion. But then again, what will the common man’s interpretation hereof be?

What about outside of South Africa?

According to the local Namibian publication, Die Republikein, owners in this country could be fined for having an LED light bar mounted on their vehicle. Simply put, LED Lightbar mounted to your vehicle while traveling public roads in Namibia is illegal.

Namibian road law specifies that only light bulbs (halogen, xenon, LED) are legal on public roads. And since an LED bar is classified as a diode, not a light bulb, it’s illegal. The problem is the method of identification for these lightbars.

Officers aren’t sure whether to see it as a single light or a box containing a number of small, individual lights. And since the law doesn’t permit more than six headlights on the front of a vehicle, a light bar becomes problematic. The use of lightbars offroad and on farms are not illegal. But when you get pulled over on a public road, you will be fined, even if it is switched off and concealed behind a cover.


LED Light Bars and Lumens

Lumens (Lm) is the measurement of total visible light from a beam.

Lumens tell us how bright. Certainly, the lumen rating plays a part in determining the brightness of the light, but should never be the single deciding factor when choosing a light. The reason we say this is, the ANSI standard for measuring lumens is in an integrated sphere. In other words, the lumen output is measured at close proximity to the light source.

In driving light terms, Lumen output is not the best indicator of the performance of any particular LED light. We are more concerned about our driving lights performance at 20 to 300m.  As an example, you could have two light bars side by side with equal lumen ratings, but different lens configurations with hugely varying light output at say 150m.

In short, the delivered light  (lux) is the more appropriate rating. Two different lights bar both with 10,000 Lumens can have very different lux reading at 100m. We have seen Lux measurement of similar spec bars vary by 50% or more at a mere 10m, despite having identical Lumen output. When all of the optics or reflectors from any given light bar is removed, the delivered lumens count doesn’t change. It goes up! But needless to say, the beam performance is affected drastically.

Most Lumen numbers we encounter are totally fictitious, there are many other important metrics to consider.


Have you ever wondered why the cheapest LED driving lights seem to have the highest “Watts”? And the premium gear produced by the most respected manufacturers have far less in comparison?

In brief terms, Watts is an of measure the amount of energy consumed by any given luminaries. Thanks to older incandescent light bulbs, people are used to looking at Watts to determine the light output.  With this older style technology, it is correct to assume that 100W light bulb is likely to be brighter when compared to a 60W bulb.  This same logic, however, cannot be applied to LED driving lights or LEDs in general. When it comes to LED, it is ok to think about Watts as a measure of input power, but it’s never ok to think of Watts as a measure of output.

There is no relationship between Watts & Lumens and no relationship between Watts & Lux when it comes to LED Driving Lights or LED Light Bars once the LED are placed inside of a circuit.

Two different LED Light bars with different LED emitters can consume an equal number of Watts but differ in light Lumen output. For example, one 3W LED may have an efficiency of 128Lm/W where another may only have 65Lm/W. When deciding which LED light bar or driving light to purchase based on Watt is very misleading.

LEDs very existence is low power, high output. Big power consumption and big Watts go against the very existence of LEDs. All the high end cutting edge LEDs being released by the top tier manufacturers are consuming less and less current/Watts. The results in Lumen even higher. In 2006 CREE’s best LED on offer at the time was producing 131 Lumens Per Watt (LPW) – in 2014 their best emitter was producing 303 LPW.

The comparison shot below drives this home perfectly.

DRIVING LIGHTS & LUX – A very important metric, but not the end all be all. 

Lux is defined as being the measure of light intensity, as perceived by the human eye. It is the measure of light at a given distance on a surface. Driving light manufacturers have pushed aside Lumens in favor of Lux (Lx).

Lux distance data is definitely an important metric but is misleading if considered in isolation. A laser pointer could theoretically have a peak beam distance of 5km at 1 lux. The reality is a pair of laser pointers will make for an awful driving light.

When manufacturers carry out photometric testing to obtain isolux data, the goniophotometer used to test this metric only measures the peak intensity at the center of the entire beam. Now that’s great, but what about the rest of the beam? If 5 different driving lights all have 1 lux at 500m, which one do you buy? To obtain remarkable isolux numbers it is simply a matter of focusing down the beam.

The very best driving lights are the ones which strike the best possible balance between brightness (Lm) and beam throw (Lx). Some of the best of the best driving light manufacturers refuse to quote lux distance numbers on their flagship products. This, taken in isolation is misleading in particular when customer’s are comparing Lux data between separate manufacturers.

The best driving light isn’t necessarily the one that achieves the longest beam throw. The best driving lights in our view is a well-formed overall beam shape, and most importantly, the one which is best suited to the customer’s application. In this regard, even the customer geographical location plays an important role. The nature of the roads in Northern Cape demand different beam shapes to that which is found in the bush-rich Limpopo.

We hope this blog entry has answered some of your questions, but if you still need some advice, please feel free to give us a call on (27) 87 702 1718



Depending on the platform you are viewing this on the text may not be 100% visible so we will list instructions below.


1 – Black. Earth / Ground (earth on harness)

2 – Red. Connect to 12v power supply (high beam on harness)

3 – Red. Connected to relay pin 86. This is your power out when the switch is on (relay on harness)



1 – Black. Earth / Ground (earth on harness)

2 – Red. Normally connected to dash light circuit to be on when your dash lights are on

2 – Red. Connect to your relay or accessories (relay on harness)

3 – Red. Connect from your source with an inline (high beam on harness)



We have attached the user manual for our STEDI RGB Rock Lights as a .pdf available for you to download. Below is the app download link and also a brief cover of some key features through the app.


Installation Process:

When it comes to installation it’s quite a simple process. Simply run the harness through your engine bay connecting the positive (red) and negative (black) wires to your battery terminals. Run the harness to a central point for where you plan to mount your rock lights around your vehicle. Mount each light in desired locations and run the wiring back to your harness. Lastly, run the switch through the firewall and mount in a location of choice on the dash or elsewhere in the cabin.

Application Control:

The lights can be controlled using music/voice, alarms, RGB slider, and colors picked from photos on your device. The app can be downloaded through the App Store or Google Play.

To connect to the RGB Rock Lights, turn on the Bluetooth on your device and select from the list to sync. Once connected open the Happy Lighting app which will allow you to change to color and mode in which the lights will operate.

For a more detailed guide with screenshots, download the .pdf attached to this article.

Guide Page 1




This post will explain the installation process of the STEDI Fog Light LED Upgrade into Ironman Bullbars with the round/small fog light surround.



U-Cradle in the box is used to provide the ability to mount the fog light unit further back in the housing on the newer bull bars. Keeping the original nuts and bolts attached to the rear panel of the surround, sit the u-cradle on top of the nuts with the tabs facing to the front of the vehicle tightening with the additional nuts provided.


Next, you will need to place the fog light unit into the housing with the tabs on the fog light lining up on the outside of the u-cradle tabs. This will just need to sit in position, the tension should hold it in place allowing you to move on the adding the nuts and bolts.


Install the remaining nuts and bolts into the u-cradle to secure the fog light. This can be quite tricky as they can be hard to reach, using a spanner to lift the nut into place should make it a little easier to push the bolt through and tighten. Lastly, install as usual adjusting the tilt and angle as you would any other fog light.



4X Light has a good range of lights available for our customers who prefer two wheels, riding either on-road or off-road.

One of the best upgrades available for those with 7″ round headlights is our 7″ Carbon or 7″ Iris sealed units. They are ADR approved and offer a massive increase in performance from a standard H4 sealed globe.

For those who don’t have a 7″ headlight, we have globes to suit headlights running H7 and H4 globes.

For auxiliary lights, we have a range of motorcycle specific driving lights and wiring available to suit motorcycles with batteries, starting the MC-5 DRL, a tiny light perfect for improving visibility. The MCX-10 a tiny, but a powerful add-on for any bike, as well as the MCX-25 Flood and MCX-25 Spot – available in both flood and spot beams, which finally brings powerful driving lights down in size and current draw – suitable for road warriors or off road warriors alike.

Light bars are other popular options for maximum output, but make sure your bike’s battery and starter can handle the additional current draw. Popular options are the ST3K 7.5″ and the ST4K 8″.

Our wiring harness (both high beam triggered and the manual switched) are compatible with bikes, and we even have a motorcycle handlebar mount switch available.



Above: Relevant to all Tall and Short type Toyota push button switches.

Below: Relevant to only Square type Toyota push button switches.



The H7 and H15 high beam upgrade for the Volkswagen Amarok is a very worthwhile upgrade. VW Amarok LED Headlight upgrade is the ultimate upgrade. This partly due to the incredible increase in light volume, but also due to the plug and play nature of the installation. The entire kit content fits neatly inside the dust-cap for steal OEM like installation.

VW Amarok LED Headlight Conversion

Check out the video below which cover the installations process.

1. VW Amarok Version 1 Headlight  H7 LED Low Beam Installation

2. VW Amarok Version 1 Headlight H15 LED High Beam Installation

3. VW Amarok Version 2 Headlight LED H15 High Beam Installation

If you’re looking for more installation advice, visit our General LED conversion install blog. 


Check out the guide below if you’re unsure as to whether your bull bar is compatible with our Deluxe or Summit LED fog light upgrade.


The ARB Deluxe Bull Bars are as shown below and are identifiable by the fog light and surround build up. The Deluxe Bull Bar range is fitted with a shroud that houses both the fog light and the indicator/DRL. The fog light itself is a complete round fog and mounts via the 2 tabs located at the rear of the fog light.

Compatible Upgrade: ARB Deluxe LED Fog Light Upgrade


Summit Bull Bars have the alternating fog light build up to the Deluxe being that the fog light is housed separately to the indicator/DRL. The fog light itself is not a completely perfect circle and the face of the fog light will follow the structure of the bar reaching further forward towards the center of the bar.

Compatible Upgrade: ARB Summit LED Fog Light Upgrade


ARB Sahara Bull Bars are where it can be a little complex when looking to upgrade the fog light as Sahara refers to the top tube only being a single hoop top tube in the center. The lower part of the bar still remains the determining factor for the fog light. With Sahara bars coming in a mixture of Deluxe and Summit fog lights you will need to refer to the picture below to identify the fog light your bar is equipped with.


Please note that this LED upgrade will not suit vehicle which has the IPF upgraded fog light housing and kit. If your fog light lens has the IPF logo embossed on it, this upgrade will not suit. 


We receive many questions relating to the sensitive nature of the Ford Ranger/ BT50 BCM (body control module) and the headlight system.

We hope to answer some of those concerns below.

There is quite a bit of scaremongering on social media and websites regarding fitting LED headlights into a Ford Ranger/ BT50. The Ranger is a very popular model, and hence gets spoken about endless amounts (headlights almost on a daily basis). A headlight conversion is very successful and will not affect the vehicle whatsoever if the correct information and guidance is followed.

The PX1 T6 Ford Ranger (2011-2013) does not require an additional CANBUS decoder with our LED Upgrade Kit, however, the 2014-2015 Ranger had an electrical update through the BCM (Body Control Module), which then required the use of an H4 Canbus decoder to alleviate any vehicle codes.

The decoder allows the BCM to see a load on the system which is consistent with a standard H4 halogen globe. If the BCM does not see the appropriate load, it will not allow power down the headlight wires. This is pretty silly as the same thing happens when you blow a standard halogen globe.
Once the BCM trips and stops allowing power down the headlight wires, a code will be raised and will need to be cleared via an OBD scanner. If you don’t have a scanner available, this will need to be done by your local mechanic or Ford/Mazda dealership.

The entire range (2011-current) Mazda BT50 will require the H4 Canbus decoder.
If you have already fitted a set of LED globes to the aforementioned Ranger and BT50 and find they do not work, you are able to buy our H4 CANBUS decoder to plug in the interim, however, the headlight code WILL need to be cleared from the BCM through the OBD port to resume function.

Canbus modules DO NOT blow the BCM at all. They are designed to alleviate any headlight issues.

Once you know the globe type you need, working out if you require an additional CANBUS module is quite an easy process. Most STEDI LED Conversion kits come with a CANBUS module inbuilt but there is the odd exception with some vehicles requiring an additional CANBUS to overwrite the vehicle’s computer. If you didn’t unplug the globe in the search for what connection you needed you will do so for the purpose of this test.


Once a light is unplugged just switch on the ignition and turn on your headlights. Looking at your dash you now may or may not have an error icon/message regarding the headlights (Globe Failure). If no message has appeared it does not mean you do not require an additional CANBUS Module. If you have a dash notification there is a chance you will need an additional CANBUS Module to install an LED Conversion. Below is an explanation of how the CANBUS systems work, unfortunately, the only true form of working out if a model of the car requires an additional CANBUS is through trial.


There are some exceptions to the rule. In the case of the Ford Ranger PX1 built from 2013 to 2015 and Mazda BT50 built from 2013 to current, will require an H4 Error decoder in all circumstances. Although no bulb out warning is visible on the dash, the error decoding is necessary to play friendly with the vehicles B.C.M module.


These are available in the same format as the LED conversion i.e H7, H4, etc…

Most modern vehicles have systems in play that moderate things like doors being open, faults in certain components, lights bulb blown, etc…

This system monitors the amp draw that your lights consume to work out if the light is functioning correctly. This type of system is compatible with the included CANBUS with your LED Conversion Kit. Some vehicles not only monitor amps but voltage as well, this is where the additional CANBUS comes into play.

The additional CANBUS Module overwrites the vehicle’s computer into ignoring the additional current draw & voltage that LED lights require. Note that additional CANBUS decoders are only required for low beam upgrades.


The H4 collar found on our current generation Copper Head LEDs is adjustable. To ensure that the beam pattern is accurate, it is essential that the LEDs and reflector cup are orientated correctly.

The LEDs should be facing east and west, with the reflector cup reflecting light to the top of the reflector as shown at 0.39sec in the video below

Once correctly aligned, the beam pattern should look like the following picture.

PRO TIP:  We recommend installing our LED kit to one headlamp first leaving the alternate side with the standard bulb.  Once fitted, turn on the headlamps on whilst roughly 1m meter away from a wall, and check the overall beam pattern of the LED side exactly matches the alternate side. The overall light distribution should resembler the above pattern.


There are numerous ways to run the cabling or wiring from the roof back down to engine bay and listed below in order of preference is how most professionals, be it, 4×4 shops or auto electricians will complete the install.

Running wiring from the roof is generally not a plug and play affair and will require some auto electrical knowledge in selecting suitable wiring gauge and the joining or termination of wires due to the extended length of wiring required in addition to the supplied wiring harness.

1. Down the side of the windscreen glass. This is entirely vehicle dependent as some vehicles windscreens do not allow this position whatsoever. Generally wiring is run from the light into some twin core heavy gauge wiring available from any 12v supplier. This wiring will be positioned in the side of the windscreen and held in with some suitable silicon adhesive.

2. Down the back of the cab. The wiring will be much longer in lineal metres and less discreet, however is an applicable option and generally only needs cable ties to install. The cabling is run along the length of the roof attached to the roof rack or rail, and in the case of a ute, will generally loop across to either the sports bar or headboard of the tray itself and head down to the chassis rail then off to the engine bay.

3. Down the snorkel. Although not commonly adopted, it is possible to loop the wire from a roof light bar into the back of the snorkel head. Once it is in the snorkel head, the cable will run down into the dirty side of the airbox and will require drilling through the side of the airbox to penetrate the wiring back into the engine bay. (note; the penetration through the airbox will need to be completely sealed and tested prior to any possible river crossing)

4. Drilling through the roof. This is the least favorable option as it is not reversible. This option is quite self explanatory, where a hole is simply drilled through the outer roof skin and wires passed through a rubber grommet into the roof cavity and fed down into the vehicle.

Please refer to these above options as a guide only. It is always best to consult a 4×4 shop or qualified auto electrician on the intricacies of the install process and the correct selection of correct wire gauge if you are not quite sure.

Unfortunately we do not complete any installs.


So you bought yourself a rad new set of H15 Copper Head LED upgrades.

Things to remember when installing the H15 into the Ford Ranger T6 Facelift (2016-Present). The headlight unit consists of 8 LED diodes, 2 dedicated for DRL (Day-Time Running Lights) and 6 for High-Beam.

Because of the geometery of the reflector housing on the high-beam housing of the Ford Ranger, the LED reflector cap (shown in the picture below, marked A), is in the wrong direction. The result will be a high-beam that is very shallow on the road and do not have any distance in the beam.

The solution is really easy and simple to perform. Turn the reflector cap around.

Step 1: Located the two small phillips screws located on each side of the base of the LED body. Unscrew these with a small diameter phillips screw driver.

Step 2: Turn the connecting collor a full 180 degrees. Line the two screw holes up and re-tighten the screws. The reflector cap should now be facing down-ward in relation to the connector pins facing downward when viewing the LED bulb from the side as in the below picture.

Step 3: Install as normally.

STEDI Copper Head H4 Upgrade Suzuki Burgman Motorcycle - From a Customer

My weekend project, installing LED headlights. I have been running LED bulbs in a variety of my vehicles for years and generally like the results. I have found 2 big issues though with many LED bulb replacements. First in low quality in both light output (too dim) and beam spread (too blotchy). Secondly has to do with the heat sink. Earlier versions had a little radiator fin setup that coped poorly with heat and caused LED failures. Then there were the fan powered globes that helped but became a fitment issue due to the big fan design and many of these fan motors caused a whine to come over the radio as well.
After doing a bit of research I came across the Stedi LED globe replacements systems that used a flexible metal ribbon as a heat sink. This design allows it to fit into many more applications and the are no moving parts to fail. I have been very impressed with these in my 4×4 and spent much time on heavily corrugated tracks. My Stedi bulbs have survived all of this while providing excellent output and beam spread.
When it came time to upgrade my Burgman headlight the Stedi’s were my first thought especially given the awkward rubber dust covers on the headlights. These Stedi bulbs have a removable base that allows you to install and lock down the base, install the dust cover than simply slide in the LED bulb, turn and click it into place. It is all very plug and play making it a very easy and clean install.
If you have searched on installing bulbs into the Burgman you know there are two main ways to do it. Either the full upper plastic removal or the reach behind the headlamp from underneath. Due to the fact that you need to secure the LED control boxes I chose to remove the top plastic. You do this removing the 8 screws attaching the top cover as shown in the pics. You can remove the handlebar plastics if you want more room as I did but it is not necessary. Once the plastics are off simply pull off the wiring connector from the back of the bulb, remove the rubber dust shield and then push the metal retainer wire on the right side of the bulb (looking at it from the rear) by pushing it forward and down. The bulb can now come out.
Now remove the plastic mounting bracket from the LED bulb by twisting to unlock it and pulling it off. You can now mount this into the headlamp and secure it with the metal retaining clamp until it clicks into place. Next install the rubber boot and then slide in the LED bulb. It will only go in one direction so you will need to rotate it until it slips in. Once fully pushed in you then rotate it to lock it into place. Connect the LED control box to the bulb and then to the connector that used to go to the old halogen bulb. Now secure the wires with the included cable ties and mount the control box to the side plastics with the included double sided tape. Test the lights before closing everything up.
I have found the low beams to be at least 50% brighter than stock and the high beams to be double the brightness. I am very impressed with the colour and the beam spread. I have tried to show pics of the difference but I found it difficult to get my camera to show how much better the LEDs actually are. Pair that with the facts that they put out more light, are better colour and use less power, these are very worthwhile.
These Stedi lights are an Australian company and I have found their products to be very durable and high quality.